Trimming mechanism for machines for sewing looped fabrics.



Patented Dec. 3, l90l.

F. G. SHELAIN.

TBIMMING MECHANISM FOR MACHINES FOR SEWING LOOPED FABRICS.

(Application filed July 2, 1901.\,

6 Sheets-Sheet I.

(No Model.)

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Application. filed July 2, 1901.} v

6 Sheets-Shaet 2.

' (No Model.)

No. 688,032. Ptented Dec. 3, l90l. F. e. SHELAIN.

TRIMMING MECHANlSM FOR MACHINES FOR SEWING LOD'PED FABRICS.

Application: filed July 2, 1901.)

(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 3.

Patented Dec. 3, [90L F. G. SHELAIN.

TRIMMING MECHANISM FOR MACHINES FOR SEWING LOOPED FABRICS.

(Appfication filgd July 2, 1901.)

6 Sheets$heet 4.

(No Model.)

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Patented Dec. 3, I90I.

F. G. SHELAIN.

TRIMMING MECHANISM FOR MACHINES FOR SEWING LOUPED FABRICS.

(A licacioii filed July 2, 1901.)

6 Sheets-Shaun 5.

(No Model.)

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No. 688,032. Patented .Dec. 3, I901. F. G. SHELAIN.

TBIMMING MECHANISM FOR MACHINES FOB SEWING LOUPED FABRICS.

(Application filed July 2, 1901.] (No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 6.

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- UNITED STATES PATENT ,OFFIGE.

FRANK G. SHELAIN, OF ROCKFORD, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR TO FRANK R. BROWN, OF ROCKFORD, ILLINOIS.

TRIMMING MECHANISM FOR MACHINES FOR SEWING LOOPED FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 688,032, dated December 3, 1901.

Application filed July 2, 1901. Serial No. 661917. (No model.) i

To ctZZ whom as may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK G. SHELAIN, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at Rockford, in the county of WVinnebago and State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Trimming Mechanisms for Machines for Sewing Looped Fabrics, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to a machine for sewing tops onto hosiery, ankle and wrist bands onto knit underwear, 850., and in which the work is trimmed off parallel with and closely adjacent to the line of stitches being formed thereby simultaneously with the sewing operation; and it consists of certain new and useful features of construction and combinations of parts especially devised and designed therefor, all as hereinafter fully described, and specifically pointed out in the claims.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification, Figure 1 is a top plan view of a machine embodying my invention. Fig. 1 is a bottom plan view of the same with parts omitted. Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the same en tire. Fig. 3 is a left side elevation, also of the same. Fig. 4. is a vertical section at the line 4 4 in Fig. 2 of parts there shown, other parts also being in elevation. Fig. 5 is an isometrical detailed view of the trimming mechanism of the machine and the combined devices for elevating the same when not in use. Fig. 6 is a top plan enlarged view of parts of the machine shown in Figs. 1 to 4, inclusive. Fig. 7 is a central vertical sectional detailed view of the ends of a stocking-leg and the top thereof connected together by means of a work-holder and being inserted through the feeding-cy1- inder of the machine preparatory to having the top sewed thereon and the edges trimmed thereoff, the work-holder and feeding-cylinder also being shown in like section. Figs. 8 to 12, inclusive, are views illustrating the successive operations of the needle and looper of the machine while forming a stitch. Fig. 13 is a section at the line 13 13 in Fig. 3 of parts there shown.

Like characters of reference indicate corresponding parts throughout the several vie ws..

provided with upwardly-projecting lugs A A A A, and A", Fig. 1, having bearings A A A A and A therein to support to tatable and oscillatory parts.

B is the main shaft of the machine and is mounted in the bearings A A in the lugs A A I C is a cam-wheel fast to the shaft B, having formed in and on the opposite faces thereof eccentrics and other cams for operating the machine. Of these is an eccentric for operating the part that carries the needle, C is an eccentric for actuating the arm that drives the stop-motion mechanism, (3 O are cams for vertically reciprocating, and C C are cams for horizontally reciprocating, the looper-arm, and C is a cam for-operating the feeding mechanism of the machine.

D is a belt-crank mounted by its angle D on an integral or rigid arm A on the base A by means of a pivot-bearing D provided at one end D with a roller-stud D, connecting it with the eccentric O in the cam-wheel O and furnished at its free end D with a needle D which reeiprocates endwise in the arc of a circle when sewing.

E is a rock-shaft mounted horizontally in the bearings A A in the lugs A A and provided with a vertical bracket E, integral or rigidly connected therewith and having a recess E therein to receive a part to be described hereinafter.

F is a'looper-arm mounted on a vertical pivot F in the recess E in the bracket E on the horizontal rock-shaft E. The horizontal rock-shaft E and vertical pivot F allow the free end F of the looper-arm F to be reciprocated both vertically and horizontally.

F F are respectively vertical and horizontal studs integral or rigidly connected with the looper-arm F and projecting there from into the paths of the cams C C and O C thereon.

G G are pins rigidly connected with and projecting from the looper-arm F and the base A, respectively.

G is a coiled spring connecting the outer ends of the pins G G and constantly acting horizontally through the former and the looper-arm F to keep the horizontal stud F' on the latter in engagement with the camwheel 0.

G is a coiled spring connecting the looper- .arm F with the lug A on the base A and acting constantly and vertically to keep the vertical stud F thereon in engagement with the cam-wheel C.

H is a looper projecting from the free end F of the looper-arm F down to cooperate with the needle D to produce from a single thread H, passing therethrongh, a chain-stitch of the ordinary form. r

I is a peripherally-grooved driving-pulley fast to the right-hand end of the shaft B and provided with a belt I, communicating power thereto from a continuously-rotating drivingshaft. (Not shown.)

I is a spring-actuated slide-bar arranged to move endwise in guides 1 fast to the base A, and having a peripherally-grooved belttightening pulley I" mounted on a stud-journal I projecting therefrom.

J is a ratchet-wheel mounted to rotate on the vertical stud-journal J, projecting from the base A and provided with a spring J fast by one end thereto and by the other end to the journal J, normally sustaining the same in the position shown in Fig. 1.

J is a spring-actuated detent arranged to slide endwise in the guide J", fast to the base A, and engage the notches J on the slide-bar I and provided with a transverse lug J, projecting into engagement with the lug J on ratchet-wheel J.

J is a spring-actuated detent mounted on a pivot J on the base A and shown held out of engagement, Fig. 1, with the ratchet-wheel J against the action of the spring J by means of the lug J on the slide-bar 1 K is a rock-shaft mounted in the horizontal bearing A in the lug A Fig. 1.

K, Fig. 4, is a crank-arm fast by its lower end to the rock-shaft K and provided at its upper end with a roller-stud K projecting into and engaging the eccentric C in the camwheel 0.

K is an arm fast by its upper end K 110 the rock-shaft K and having its lowerend K projecting downward to adapt it to engage one tooth K on the ratchet-wheel J at each oscillation of such rock-shaft K, and thereby ad- Vance it against the action of the spring J L is a peripherally-ratcheted feeding-cylinder fitted into and adapted to rotate in the circular opening A in the base A.

L is a pawl-lever mounted on the pivot L on the base A and provided at its front end L with a pivoted spring-actuated pawl L to engage the teeth L on the feeding-cylinder L and therethrough operate the same.

L is an arm fast by its outer end L to the rear end L of the pawl-lever L and projecting transversely therefrom and immediately below the cam-wheel O and provided on the upper side of its inner end L with a vertical roller-stud L projecting into the path of the earn 0 on the cam-wheel 0, so that rotation of the latter, cooperating with the sliding pin L mounted in the slideway L and actuated by the spring L will reciprocate the pawllever L and its pawl L to operate the feeding-cylinder L.

M is a circular work-holder having a series of pointed metal quills 1N projecting radially from the periphery thereof to receive and support pieces of tubular fabric M M to be sewed together and trimmed by the machine and provided with a handle M", inserted therethrough and vertically projecting from the center thereof and terminating above in a rounded boss M having a horizontal annular groove M therein to adapt it to be secured into a support to have placed thereon the pieces of fabric to be joined together. The quills M, Fig. '7, of the work-holder M correspond in number and also register with the radial grooves ll/ 7 in the upper end of the feedcylinder L, so that when the former is seated in the latter-asin Figs.4and 6, forinstance they rotate together.

N is a vertically-swinging arm pivotally mounted on the main shaft B, terminating at its free end in a head N, carrying a sheartrimmer consisting of a stationary inner blade N and a vibrating outer blade N the former, N being adjustably connected therewith by means of the supporting-shank N set into a socket N thereimand the 1atter,N ,being supported and operated by means of the rockshaft N mounted therein, and both blades being so fashioned and arranged as to coact to trim the edge of a seam N, Fig. 6, while being formed by the combined sewing devices of the machine.

N is a deflectonarm for removing the severed material N from the stationary blade N after each stroke of the vibrating blade N rigidly connected by one end with the rockshaft N and projecting and vibrating immediately above such stationary blade.

0 is a wrist-wheel fast to the main shaft B.

O is a crank-arm fast to and projecting from thenpper end of the rock-shaft N.

O is a pitman connecting the wristO of the wrist-wheel O with the free end 0 of the crank-arm O on the rock-shaft N.

P is a presser-arm for holding a seam N being trimmed against the edge 'of the stationary inner blade N of the shear-trimmer, mounted on a vertical pivot P on the frame A andnormally held out of action by meansof a spring P as indicated by dotted lines X, Fig. 6. hen the head N is lowered from the position indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 5 to the position there shown in solid lines, the lug P thereon will engage the lug P on the presser-arm P and swing it from the position shown in dotted lines X in Fig. 6 to the position there shown in solid lines and there retain it until the head N is again raised to the position indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 5.

R is a tubular bearing projecting vertically from the upper side of the base A and having mounted therein a rock-shaft R, extending through and somewhat below the under bearings R in the base A below the under side of such base.

S S are crank-arms fast to the outer and inner ends, respectively, of the rock-shaft R S is a crank-arm fast to the lower end of the rock-shaft R.

T is a link connecting the free ends of the crank-arms S S through the pivots T T T is a link connecting the free end of the crank-arm S with the free end of the crankarm T, projecting from and integral with the rear portion of the arm N, through the pivots T T.

U is a spring fast by one end to the link T and by the other end to a bearing U on the base A.

V is a lever fast by one end to the upper end of the rock-shaft R and terminating, at its free end in an operating-handle V. The lever V serves a double purpose, the first being to raise and lower the head N and the second to lock the work-holder M into the feed-cylinder L by pressing upon the boss M on the top of the handle M. It the lever V, Fig. 5, be swung to the position indicated by dotted lines X, the rock-shaft R being turned thereby will swing the crank-arm S to the position indicated by dotted lines, which movement of the crank-arm S acting through the link T, will turn the crank-arm S down to the position indicated by dotted lines, and the downward movement of the crank-arm S, communicated through the rock-shaft BF, will turn the crank-arm S downward to the position indicated in dotted lines, and the descent of the crank-arm S, acting through the link T and crank-arm T projecting from the rear portion of the arm N, will elevate the latter and its head N to the position shown in dotted lines X and the spring U by its tension will sustain the parts to which refer ence has just been made in the positions indicated by dotted lines until the lever is restored to its original position, when all the parts affected thereby will be returned to the positions shown in solid lines in Fig. 5. While the parts composing the trimming mechanism of the machine are in the positions indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 5 the work-holder M, with the pieces of fabric to be sewed together placed thereon, Fig. 7, is placed in working position in the feed-cylinder L, Fig. 4, and locked thereinto by means of the lever V.

W is a lever mounted concentrically with the lever V on a separate pivot-bearing W and superimposed normally thereon. Sometimes after two pieces of tubular fabric have been sewed together and the edges of their joining-seam N have been trimmed by the blades N N of the shear-trimmer it will be found that stitches have been dropped or that the sewing is otherwise defective. The head N,with its trimming devices, may in such case be elevated out of the way, as shown in Fig. 5, and the free end of the lever W be placed on the top M of the work-holder handle and the two pieces be again sewed together by the machine without being trimmed a second' time, as a second trimming of the same would be liable to result in making the selvage of their connecting-seam too narrow, and consequently too weak, to properly support the line of stitching uniting them together.

1 is a vertical stud fast to the base A and supporting a horizontal arm 2, carrying two .dle D looper-hook H and the thread H at the instan t a stitch is completed. Figs. 9 and 10 show the point of the needle D passing inward through the loop H to furnish thread H Fig. 9, to form the next succeeding stitch. Fig. 11 shows the looper-hook H which has moved to the left upward and thence to the right from the position shown in Figs. 9 and 10, just picking up the portion of thread H from the upper side of the needle D to form a new loop H Fig. 12, where the looper-hook H is shown as supporting such loop H until the needle D returns to the position shown in Fig. 6, and thereby draws taut and completes the stitch I1 Fig. 12. Whiletheneedle D was retiring from the position shown in Fig. 12 to that shown in Fig. 6 the looperhook H descended lower than the point of the needle D, sothat upon the return of such needle it might again pass inward above the looper-hook H as in Figs. 9 and 10, to furnish thread for another stitch.

The stop-motion mechanism, consisting of the parts from I to K, inclusive, has but one functionto stop the machine at end of each operation of sewing two pieces of fabric together. Understanding the ratchet-wheel J'to have at least as many or more teeth K as the feeding-cylinder L, that the parts comprising the stop-motion mechanism are in the positions shown in Figs. 1 and l and that the driving-pulley I and its belt I are motionless, push the slide-bar l inward against the action of the spring 1 until the lug J thereon is disengaged from the detent J and the notch J therein is opposite the point J of the detent J The detent J will then be thrown into engagement with the ratchet-wheel J by the spring J and the spring J will push the point J of the detent J into engagement with the notch J in the slide-bar I and lock it in the position indicated by dotted lines X in Fig. 1, and thus through the belt-tightening pulley 1, being thereby held tightly against it, tighten the belt I and cause it to drive the pulley I and its shaft B and connections. Each rotation of the cam-wheel C,

Fig. 4, acting through the eccentric 0 arm K,

rock-shaft K, and arm K will cause the free end K of the latter to vibrate and engage a tooth K, Fig. 1, on the ratchet-wheel J and advance it in the direction contrary to that traveled by the hands of a watch and against the action of the spring J one tooth, the

1 detent J looking it after'each advancement.

the notch J in the sliding bar 1 whereupon its actuating-spring I will return it to the positionshown in solid lines, Fig. 1, and the driving-pulley I and its belt I will again become motionless, and thus suffer the machine to stop. As the slide-bar I is returned to its original position by its spring I the lug J thereon disengages the detent J from the ratchet wheel J, and its spring J being thereby left free to act, turns it backward 'to its original position or until the lug J 7 thereon has traveled from the right side to the left side of the lug J on the detent J At each rotation of the cam-wheel C the cam O thereon, acting through the roller-stud L arm L pawllever L, and pawl L advances the feedingcylinder'L one tooth L and with it the workholder M, which conveys the two pieces of fabric M M past the point of the needle D to be seamed together thereby and thence between the edges of the stationary blade N and the presser-arm P to have the edge of the seam N thereon trimmed off by the coaction of the stationary and vibrating blades N N of the shear-trimmer, the deflector-arm N removing the severed material N from the trimmer-blades during the opening movement of its vibrating blade.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a trimming mechanism for machines for sewing looped fabrics, in combination, a shear-trimmer comprising a stationary inner blade'and a pivoted vibrating outer blade coacting therewith, a pivoted deflector-arm located and vibrating immediately above the stationary blade, a head'supported by a vertically-swinging arm-carrying the stationary blade and having a rock-shaft, supporting and operating the vibrating blade and deflector-arm, mounted therein, and means for oscillating therock-shaft and for raising and lowering the vertically-swinging arm substantially as and for the purpose specified.

21 The combination, with the machineframe, of a main shaft mounted therein, a vertically-swinging arm-pivotally mounted onthe main'shaftterminating, at its free end, in a head carrying a shear-trimmer, comprising a stationary inner blade and a pivoted vibrating outer blade coacting therewith, and a deflector=arm located and vibrating immediately above the stationary blade, and having a rock-shaft, supporting'and operating the vibrating blade and deflector-arm, mounted therein, a pitman connection between the main shaft and rock-shaft, and means for raising and lowering the verticallyswinging arm and its head, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

3. The combination, with the machineframe, of a main shaft mounted therein, a head--supported by a vertically-swinging arm pivotally mounted on the main shaftcarrying a shear-trimmer, comprisinga stationary inner blade and a pivoted vibrating outer blade coacting therewith, and a pivoted deflector-arm located and vibrating immediately. above the stationary blade, and having a rock-shaft, supporting and operating the vibrating blade and deflector-arm, mounted therein, a crank-arm on the rock-shaft, a crank-wheel on the main shaft, a pitman connecting the crank-arm and crank-wheel, sub stantially as and for the purpose specified.

4. In a trimming mechanism for machines for sewing looped fabrics, in combination, a main frame, a rotatable feeding cylinder mounted therein, a work-holder seated in and rotating with the feeding-cylinder, a sheartrimmer, consisting of a stationary inner blade and a pivoted vibrating outer blade, a presser-arm for holding a seam being trimmed against the edge of the stationary inner blade, and a pivoted vibrating deflector-arm, for removing the severed material from the stationary blade, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

5. The combination, with the machineframe, of a rotatable feeding-cylinder mounted therein, a circular work-holder seated in and rotating with the feed-cylinder, a shaft mounted in the main frame, a verticallyswinging arm pivotally mounted on the shaft-terminating, at its free end, in a head carrying a shear-trimmer, comprising a stationary inner blade and a pivoted vibrating outer blade coactin g therewith, and a deflector-arm located and vibrating immediately above the stationary blade, and having a rock-shaft, supporting and operating the vibrating blade and deflector-arm, mounted therein, a presser-arm for holding a seam being trimmed against the edge of the station aryinner blade, a pitman connection between the main shaft and rock-shaft, and means for raising and lowering the vertically-swingin g arm and its head, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

FRANK G. SHELAIN.

\Vitnesses:

L. L. MORRISON, NELLIE BUNKER. 

